Free Ebook Raw Material: Working Wool in the West, by Stephany Wilkes

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Raw Material: Working Wool in the West, by Stephany Wilkes

Free Ebook Raw Material: Working Wool in the West, by Stephany Wilkes

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Book Description

Follow a sweater with an "Italian Merino" label back far enough and chances are its life began not in Milan, but in Montana. Many people want to look behind the label and know where their clothes come from, but the textile supply chain-one of the most toxic on the planet-remains largely invisible. In Raw Material, Stephany Wilkes tells the story of American wool through her own journey to becoming a certified sheep shearer. What begins as a search for local yarn becomes a dirty, unlikely, and irresistible side job. Wilkes leaves her high tech job for a way of life considered long dead in the American West. Along the way, she meets ornery sheep that weigh more than she does, carbon-sequestering ranchers, landless grazing operators, rare breed stewards, and small-batch yarn makers struggling with drought, unfair trade agreements, and faceless bureaucracies as they work to bring eco-friendly fleece to market.Raw Material demonstrates that the back must break to clothe the body, and that excellence often comes by way of exhaustion. With humor and humility, Wilkes follows wool from the farm to the factory, through the hands of hardworking Americans trying to change the culture of clothing. Her story will appeal to anyone interested in the fiber arts or the textile industry, and especially to environmentally conscious consumers, as it extends the concerns of the sustainable food movement to fleece, fiber, and fashion.

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About the Author

Stephany Wilkes  is a sheep shearer certified by the University of California Agricultural and Natural Extension Center, a wool classer certified by the American Sheep Industry Association, and the president of the Northern California Fibershed Cooperative. Her writing has appeared in The Billfold, The Ag Mag, Hobby Farms, Midwestern Gothic, and other publications. Stephany speaks about sheep and wool terroir at numerous yarn shops, fiber festivals, schools, and events. She lives and gardens in San Francisco. 

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Product details

Paperback: 312 pages

Publisher: Oregon State University Press; 1 edition (October 20, 2018)

Language: English

ISBN-10: 0870719513

ISBN-13: 978-0870719516

Product Dimensions:

6 x 0.8 x 9 inches

Shipping Weight: 1.1 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)

Average Customer Review:

5.0 out of 5 stars

15 customer reviews

Amazon Best Sellers Rank:

#28,096 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

As a shepherd and a trained sheep shearer, I can tell you that Stephany Wilkes book is spot-on on what it's like to learn to shear sheep for someone not born into it. The fear, the exhaustion, and the full-on revolting state shearing leaves you in are all elegantly and honestly written. Her book details the many, many, many, many obstacles facing modern shepherds and the people that support them from shearers to wool brokers to land owners and mill operators.Stephany gives concise and easy to understand explanations into the many scientific reasons that wool is so amazing without dumbing things down (which I adore her for). She gives faces and stories to the people who supply this country with fiber and food without making their stories trite or commercialized.If you are at all interested in wool, or even agriculture in any form, get this book. You won't regret it.

If you’re a shearer, a shepherd, a sheep owner, a weaver, a knitter, a felter, or otherwise invested in wool production or fiber art, then of course you’ll be joining those flocking (sorry) to the bookstore for Raw Materials: Working Wool in the West. I am none of those things. I don’t even read nonfiction for fun. And yet I couldn’t put this book down.True, it’s about the economics of wool production and comes packed with the kind of data analysis that usually puts me to sleep. But I became invested in that data via some strong story lines (spoiler alert) and a cast of compelling characters.First, there’s the author herself. Starting with an innocent question (Why can’t I find local yarn?), she ends up swapping her desk job in the city for the fulfillment and community of work on the land. Her stories about shearing introduce us to other shearers, to small farmers, and to the sheep themselves. (The “Aww…” factor here made me want to head to Meridian Jacobs to hang out with the sheep.) Their stories are skillfully woven into the broader stories, like those about wool mills and carbon farming and cycles of fire and flood. And finally there’s the story of the wool: the different types, what is required to process it, the possible benefits of sheep farming for the land and for the larger environment.The book was particularly poignant for me as a resident of northern California; Wilkes’ storytelling brought to life the acres I speed by on my way to the Bay Area, to Redding, Shasta, Gualala, Napa, northeastern California, and Reno. I also learned things about slow money and nurture capital and the impact of synthetic dyes—things that are likely to impact my buying decisions.But all in all this is a love story entwined (sorry) with other love stories—love for the sheep and the shearing and love of the land, of one’s own community, and of the earth. So, if you’re looking for a good yarn (again, sorry) and are not afraid to be inspired, make Raw Materials your next read.

An engaging mix of personal story and journey through the process and history of how wool becomes yarn, Raw Materials details the modern revival of local wool working in the west, with wonderful personal stories, and fascinating histories of the evolution of sheep and the wool industry through the present day.As someone who spends most of their time sitting in front of a computer, it was inspiring reading about someone actually taking the jump from the desk job and returning to the land.

It's well-known among book publishers that it's not the subject that makes the book; it's the author. Stephany Wilkes' Raw Material brought me into a world I'd never even thought about: how the fleece on a sheep's back becomes clothing, and made me care so much I was laughing and gasping out loud at her tales. Her sheep shearing saga starts when, as an avid knitter, she tries to find locally sourced wool near her home in San Francisco. She doesn't find any, but she does find a local fiber cooperative. There she learns about sheep shearing school, which changes her life. She learns to shear, practices and apprentices on the weekends and days off for a year, goes to sheep shearing school again, and gets more and more involved in the wool-producing world of Northern California, something that I, a native, never knew existed.It's the best kind of armchair travel there is, going deep into a world geographically under my feet but miles away from my experiences. Her growing love and care for sheep and the agriculture that surrounds them made me love them too. Just like Michael Lewis with baseball in Moneyball, Dava Sobel with Longitude, and John McPhee with seismology in Assembling California, Stephany Wilkes brings an esoteric world alive.

This was a most insightful book about wool raising and working in the US. I think few of us realize what a dying occupation and trade this is, and Stephanie Wilkes is one of the crusaders trying to revive this vital industry. It is a fun read as well as being very educational. I like to imagine her (with her IT background) being a cornerstone in reviving this important US commodity (and the thousands of people who could be employed working it), before it become a completely lost art.

The best thing about this book is that sheep shearing is not candy coated or romanticized. It's very enlightening to learn how hard it really is. Along the way you learn about some breeds of sheep, the difficulties of running a wool processing mill in the US, and the community involved in sheep and wool. The author's motivation and journey from learning to becoming experienced is a treat to read about.

This book fair exceeded my expectations. I loved it. I only regret that I missed her when she came to talk in Ann Arbor.

Excellent read for those who are knitters and crocheters.

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